The end of the world

So I started walking to the western coast of Spain, to reach what was once considered the westernmost point of the world. The sun dies there. The Milky Way points there. The origin of the Camino. It is a 90 km trek from Santiago de Compostela. The first 20 km must be done in one day: there's no accommodation within that distance. So, after a three day rest in Santiago, I went. That first day did me in. My knees said "We thought you were finished walking! We quit!" So after a horrible day of hills and heat and tears, I said "Enough of this." I got a bed at the hostel, and I extended my stay to three nights instead of one. It was a lovely place, and I was happy to treat it like a retreat.
And then I took the bus out to the village of Fisterra, on Cape Finisterre, and spent two nights there in another lovely albergue. Although most people go to the faro (lighthouse), I visited the beach instead, and it was almost deserted. I waved to many of you from across the Atlantic. It was a beautiful and profound time spent staring at the waves and beachcombing for shells. The absolute perfect way to end my Camino.

I did it!

I did it! I'm here in Santiago! 450 kilometers walked!
I'm not the blubbering mess I thought I'd be, but I haven't been into the Cathedral yet. I will go to the Pilgrim's mass tomorrow.

Surreal and switches

I will arrive at Santiago de Compostela tomorrow morning. I've been planning, visualizing, hoping for this for 18 months, and it is kind of surreal that I'll be there tomorrow.
I filled all of the spaces on my credential today. The credential is a 'passport' that is carried by a pilgrim, and is stamped and dated at every stop, supposedly proving the distance traveled. It is recommended that even when you stop for a coffee, you get a sello (stamp). In order to get the official certificate, the Compostela, you must have sellos from at least the last 100km to prove you walked (or the last 200km if you biked).
So I got a new one the other day, as I knew that I would run out of space, and I had to bust it out today. I will use it on my way to Finisterre, and there I will receive another certificate of completion, the Finisterrana.

I've had questions about how to spend my time... My original plan (ha-ha, you can't plan a Camino), was to walk from Saint Jean Pied du Port. Well, I ended up getting a train from London to Irun, so I just walked from Irun, which put me about a week ahead of schedule. Then I ended up taking train and bus for parts of the way. So, now, I'm 12 days ahead of where I thought I would be. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get cheap accommodation for more than one night in a row in Santiago: the hostels along the way are quite strict about "one night only", but I don't know about in the city. So I was even thinking that I would change my flight to come home a week early. Didn't do that. I cemented my plan to remain by getting a flight from Santiago to London on the 17th, and booking a hostel in London for my last four nights in Europe. So I can't back out now! I'm looking forward to seeing lots of geeky stuff in London.

Homestretch and homesick

Today was a rainy day, but my pack cover and poncho did well by me. Jett's kind of disgusted with me that I didn't use the umbrella he bought for me. (I did use it once, in the sun...)
The walk was beautiful: through a nature preserve. I covered about 17 km today, and was the first to arrive at the Albergue in Miraz. I'm still always so grateful to get a bed. I was just chatting with the hospitaleros, who said that last night, 19 pilgrims spent their night in the field adjacent, as the Albergue was full. Tonight, there's still two beds open, but they might fill up later. Lots of young people walking the last 100km, and I've still been fretting about whether or not I'll be able to get a bed every night. Relax, Jolie.

I've been homesick the past few days. Earlier this week, it was my halfway day: the midpoint of my time away from home. My "camigos" Miriam and Leontina told me about the halfway day phenomena: everyone is 'off' on their halfway day, depressed, cranky, or irritable. I was all of that and more. My homesickness has been quite pronounced, and I'm so ready to go home to my family and friends.
But I can't see anyone right away because I stink so bad. I'm just going to lock myself in the washroom and soak in the tub for a week. All my gear will be confiscated at the airport because they won't let anything that filthy into Canada. They'll just put a match to it, and it will immediately combust.

Numbers

Yesterday, I walked my 300th kilometer. Three hundred. In three weeks. Holy moly.

Today, I took the bus from La Isla to Gijon, then (after spending 6 hours in the city) Gijon to Vilalba. I'm now 150km from Santiago de Compostela, and 240 km from Finisterre ("the edge of the world").
Wish me luck. :)

Luxury and the Litany Against Fear

So I got lost in Llanes. There are three albergues listed in my guide book, but I couldn't find any of them, and I lost the Camino. Instead of being patient, I saw a highway sign that said the next town, Poo, was 3 km away. Well, I knew that Poo was on the Camino, so I said, I'll just walk on the highway, get a place at the Albergue at Poo, and it's all good.
Hot, ugly highway walking sucks.
And the Albergue was full. The tourist apartments next to them were full. Poo was full.
Except for the luxury hotel "El Camin". So I got a room there. For 80euros.
I took a shower, relaxed with the tv, went out for dinner, came back, had a hot bath, and slept in a room that did not have any strangers in it.
Had a shower in the morning. Then free fancy breakfast, taking my sweet time. Wrote in my journal, then made a pig of myself and had second breakfast.
I was so at my wit's end when I arrived... Crying, limping, just a mess. But my stay was sorely needed. I had been missing creature comforts, so I got a little fix. I hope it will be enough to take me through the next three weeks...

As I left the hotel, I thought, " I'll take the train... The station is right there, and I'm going to have to take it some time... I'm way behind." As I looked for the station to buy a ticket, I met some pilgrims from Germany. One had lost the tip off of one of her walking poles, so I gave her my spares. I didn't think it was a big deal, but she was overjoyed. They invited me to walk with them, and I accepted. It was a long day, but nice to walk with awesome people again.
We parted ways when the albergue we stopped at had only one bed. They told me to take it; they had energy to press on. (I found out later that there was an extension of the albergue about 800meters down the Camino, so they didn't have to walk to the next town.)
Today, I said (planning, again. When will I learn?) "I'm going to Ribadesella, and I will stay at such-and-such albergue, because the next pilgrim Albergue reportedly sucks." Well, guess which albergue is full? Guess who had to walk 5extra kilometers? And this albergue is fine. The bathroom is not the best, but the beds are great, and the yard is lovely. And there's beer in the coke machine.

But I spent much of my brainpower today afraid and fretting that I wouldn't find a place to sleep tonight. Tears shed along the way.
When I arrived at the Albergue, and realized I really had nothing to worry about, I found myself thinking about the Bene Gesserit litany against fear from Frank Herbert's Dune:
I must not fear.
Fear is the mind-killer.
Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
I will face my fear.
I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path.
Where the fear has gone there will be nothing.
Only I will remain.

Companions and comprehension

A long day. It is very hot here, and high humidity. It is hard to walk, or do anything, when it is like breathing through a sponge.

I'm picking up more Spanish, and I can understand most of what people say if they speak slowly and the subject is in context. Numbers are getting easier, and I no longer need the cashier to print or display the amount I owe. It feels good. Still not speaking a lot, just briefly to order food or ask for a bed, but that's a start!

I am struggling with my digestion. A very upset stomach, and it has dragged on for quite a few days. I'm not sure what it's about: the food, the heat...? So I've been avoiding meat, rich food, and alcohol. :(

My brain has been okay. I've been homesick, but also very joy-filled along the way. I find myself warming to the challenges of the day. Around every corner is a surprise: a steep rocky incline lined with thornbushes, or a bubbly little stream, or a gorgeous view of the sea, or friends made along the way, or a beautiful albergue with a bed just for me.

I've been thinking about people. How I'm not the best friend, and how rarely I go visit or socialize with people. I'm realizing that I simply like to know that people are there. I can walk with someone on the path, and not exchange many words, but when we separate, I feel lonely.
Thank-you to all of you who have walked and are walking the path with me, literally and metaphorically. I like having you around.

Wandering

It is not the destination. It is the journey.
I'm starting to understand. I have  dipped my feet in the Cantabrian Sea. I have talked with people from all over the  world. In the last two weeks, I have travelled by plane, train, bus, car, boat, and foot.
Honestly, at this moment, it doesn't matter if I make it to Santiago de Compostela or not.

This process is indescribable.
Intense. Sublime. Painful. Beautiful.

Guardians and good-byes

After an extremely long night, in which I became sure that I had some kind of food poisoning, I decided to press on. The town of Noja was only 8km away, and had accommodation. I was lucky to catch up with a pilgrim who had helped me the nights before. Mirella from Como, Italy. She made sure I did not walk too fast, made sure I was eating, etc. I made it as far as Meruelo because of her. She went on to the next town, and it was very difficult to say good-bye.

I'm feeling much better today, and am about to sit down to a meal of soup and paella. I am hungry for the first time in a couple of days. I will sleep very well tonight.
I wish you all a nourishing evening, and send my love.

Angels and acceptance

He doesn't speak the language
He holds no currency
He is a foreign man
He is surrounded by the sound
The sound
Cattle in the marketplace
Scatterlings and orphanages
He looks around, around
He sees angels in the architecture
Spinning in infinity
He says Amen! and Hallelujah!
-"You Can Call Me Al"
Paul Simon

The Camino de Santiago is an exaggeration of everything. Ten times the pain, ten times the peacefulness. It is very intense, and I am learning hard lessons about life and about myself.

I find it difficult to ask for, or even to accept an offer of help from anyone, but here, I have been completely at the mercy of others... Lost in cities, running out of water, having few language skills, feeling pain and frustration, and then, suddenly, angels appear. I must accept their help, whether it's a woman refilling my water bottle from her kitchen tap, or kids pointing me the right way when I am lost, or a fellow pilgrim bribing a hostel hostess to allow us to sleep on a floor. I must accept, though I know that I can never repay that person, or even adequately express my thanks. It is humbling and powerful.

I don't know how I'm even going to begin paying all of the kindness forward: there has been so much.

Hobbits and beads

I love "The Lord of the Rings", and watch the films yearly, in a marathon showing with my dad. I re-read the books annually as well, usually in the summer. When I first started preparing for this trip, way back in Jan 2014, I began thinking of it as "there and back again". I'm going on an adventure!
The sketchbook and journal I will be using along the way are both embossed with Tolkien's illustrations from " The Hobbit ". 

Then I learned that a major city on my route is Bilbao (Bilbo). lol! I bought a copy of the elven brooch that the Fellowship wear, and it is pinned on my fannypack.

Also pinned on my pack is a pair of lampwork glass beads: bright orange with white dots. These were purchased for me (thanks, Shauna) with the intention that I take them on Camino. When I finish, I will send one of the beads to Beads of Courage, who will then give it to a child who is fighting an illness. It is a huge honour for me, and I wept when I was given the beads. So they will rattle with me across Spain.

   

Kitchen sinks and voicemail

Don't panic and freak out. No, really.
That's what I'm telling myself.

I just phoned one of the albergues (hostels) in Irun, which is my starting point. I dialled the number. Forgot the country code. Looked up country code. Dialled again. Ring-ring! Voicemail. I'm sure whoever recorded the message is a very nice lady, but here's what she sounded like:
kjbw oilksn lkjhweb!!! afg haugbbjawern a apoasdghg?!?! uno dos tres quatro cinco cinco seis. BEEEP!
So I hung up.
You can't ask a voicemail message to "repita, por favor" or "hable despacio".
I went on the Camino forum and searched about albergues in Irun, and got a different phone number. It took a few minutes for me to work myself up into phoning again, double-checking all of my words to say to begin a conversation. So I phoned. Ring-ring! Busy signal(?)! So I hung up. Without a reservation for a bed.

Hablo espanol un poco, but I have no idea how the hell I'm going to function. I know that in-person, communication will be easier. I can read Spanish better than processing spoken-word, and if all else fails, charades will work. But over the phone sucks.

Ha! I'm leaving without reservations! (ba-da-bum-tiss!)
I'm going on an adventure!!!


I ended up buying new boots. Size 10. I call them my moon-boots: they look like something an astronaut would wear. The first time I wore them around the house, I supplemented their racket with elephant-stomping noises from my mouth as I walked around. But they are fairly comfy and have room for my toes.
I also bought new shirts - for the 3rd time. Wore one out in training, replacement is just a smidge too tight and I'm not dragging a too-tight shirt with me on the chance that I might lose weight. So I bought a few merino wool t-shirts- happily they were on sale. Still expensive, but less expensive than they were last week.

I weighed my pack at the airport a couple of weeks ago, and it was too heavy. Took it home and unpacked it, looked at all of my stuff, and repacked it as it was. I don't think there's anything non-essential in it. And try as I might, I can't eliminate anything. I did chuck a pair of shorts from it last week, but beyond that... ?
So I looked up carry-on regulations, and I can have a carry-on item (up to 10 kg), AND a personal item. So I'm just going to split the weight among the backpack and my totebag. It should be okay. I'm not going to be one of those people who cuts off the end of their toothbrush handle to eliminate a few grams from their load. It's not like I'm carrying a camp stove, or curling iron, or some-such.

I'm three days away from leaving. Eeek!

Emotional baggage and shoes

I've been planning my Camino journey for a year and a half now, and I can't believe it is only three weeks away!
Part of me is exhilarated, and part of me is anxious. I've never traveled alone, and it's a mixed bag of emotions. I pity my poor husband, who has been so patient through all of my excitement and fear (and repeated viewings of the film "The Way", which is on  Netflix right now, apparently).

Attached is a photo of my boots, which, although I've been breaking them in for several months, are now too small. My feet have flattened out (because of my 9 kilo backpack?) and swollen with the heat. Sigh. I'm trying out some foot exercises (thanks, Dallas McP), which may help; otherwise, I'm buying and breaking in new boots, OR I'm hiking Spain in Sketchers. 

I'm grateful for all of the support and encouragement from my family and friends. I can hardly wait to share my walk with all of you!